Winter White Coat with Champagne Mink

Although I'm thinking SPRING these days, I wanted to share this coat that I made for the Holiday Art Fair.   The style of this coat is slightly retro but thoroughly modern.   It is about knee length and is cut fulll enough to put over a jacket or sweater.  It is fully lined and has welt pockets.  I repurposed a champagne mink stole to create the shoulder feature.  I prepare the fur by removing the lining and cutting any seams that prevent it from laying flat.   I then transfer my shoulder pattern on to the back of the fur piece.  I then reseam the fur so that it can lay on top of the coat.   I leave the coat side seams open until I have finished attaching the fur to the coat.  I use a zigzag stitch along the cut edge of the fur to attach it to the coat.  I  used a tapestry floral motif for the applique.    After I apply fusible interfacing to the back of the fabric to prevent excessive fraying, each motif is carefully cut out.   I then strategically arrange the motifs on top of the fur; pin in place and then free motion applique them to the coat.    This is quite a tedious process as the coat is very bulky and hard to manuever.  I also do some thread painting on the motif after they are applied to give it more interest and dimension.


  

Never fear, I'm still here......but where has the time gone???

Wow, here it is March 2020 and I haven't posted since September 2019.    I'll try to catch up in the next couple of weeks.   As some of you already know, every year I have the opportunity to sell my creations at the Holiday Art Fair and Doll Show sponsored by the Indy Cloth Dollmakers Club.   So during September, October and November I'm busy completing my doll for competition and creating one-of-a-kind wearable art.  After the show, I take a little time off and then when the new year started I began a new journey of textile art that I'll share with you in the next few weeks.   I'll start to catch you up by showing you some of the wearable art pieces that I had at the show.

This is a Tibetan Panel Coat that is reversible.  Finding complementary fabrics for all the panels proved to be quite a challenge.  I couldn't find fabric that I liked for the shoulder contrast, so I created by own fabric by cutting out shapes and appliqueing them on the fabric.  I did some thread painting to enhance the appliques.   The reverse fabric is a beautiful kantha fabric but again I couldn't find another kantha fabric for the contrast trim so I created my own.   As you can see each side creates a completely different vibe.  The kantha side is rather soft and impressionistic while the other side has a more modern abstract feel.  When I was done I couldn't decide which side I liked the best.   I guess that's probably a "good thing".  I love two looks with one garment, don't you?

Kanth detail

   

Fabric created for shoulder detail

My Love Affair with Kantha Fabric

I have to admit, I think Kantha fabric is awesome.   For those who do not know about Kantha; here is a brief description.  In India, old saris, either cotton or silk are patch worked together and then they are layered one of another, usually only two layers.   These two layers are then hand stitched together to form one fabric.   Usually the stitches are long running stitches.   Kantha fabric is used for garments and home decor items. 

This past spring and summer I found 3 pieces of Kantha that I love and I have made 2 of them into garments.   The first was a red floral print on one side and solid red on the reverse side.   Often garments from Kantha fabric are made reversible.  This jacket is not reversible but I did use the reverse side for the collar and cuffs.   All the colors in this jacket make it extremely versatile.  I think it will even look great with blue jeans. 

I found the second piece and third pieces at Silk Road Textiles in Cincinnati.  I have finished another Kantha jacket in purple.  It is fully lined and has wonderful sleeve detail.  

The third piece is a luscious brown print that is yet to be made but I can't wait to get started.   More to come.... 

Unusual Lantern pants

I made this Marci Tilton skirt last year from Vogue pattern V9060 and loved the shape.   I thought that the shape would also look good as pants so this year I decided to give it a try.  I took my standard pants pattern to get the waist, hip and crotch depth and then free-handed the design from there.  I drew the shape on pattern and decided on how the pattern pieces would look then I created the pattern and test the pattern in muslin.  When I was satisfied with the fit and shape I cut it out of some striped fabric that I had in my stash.   I believe the fabric is a cotton/linen blend and has a texture like something we used to call "shagbark".    I really love the result, but now I have to design the perfect top to go with it.  Have some ideas so I'll work on them this week...stay tuned.  

New Red and Black Winter Coat

I have a Lee Andersen coat that I love and I decided to use it as inspiration for another coat.   Finding fabrics that I could use proved to be quite a challenge.   I finally found a black nubby fleece and red and black sculpted fur at Fields in Kalamazoo.   I found a red and black fur online at Mood Fabrics.   Once I had all the fabrics, I set to work on a pattern.  I heavily modified a Burda Pattern so much that you wouldn't even recognize it but the sizing was what I needed most.  It is unlined so that it will be an intermediate weight coat for late fall and early winter.  I made mock flat felled seams  and serged seams so that the inside of the coat is neat in appearance.  

I found it very difficult to photograph the black and still be able to see the detail so I have included a couple of close up photos.  Enjoy. 

 

New Upcycle Tunic

Many of my friends have asked me how I make my upcycled tunics so here are a few pointers if you could like to try one yourself.  

If you want to upcycle some thrift store finds into a tunic start with sweater and shirt that will be too big for you.   Sometime I use men's sweaters and shirts and sometimes I find a L or XL women's sweater, dress or shirt.   The point is that the garments you choose should be too big for you since you will be using them as a tunic and will be modifying them.   In this case the sweater was a man's XL and the shirt was a Large.   I always try on the sweater to see how long it is on me.   Then I know how much fabric that I want to add to the bottom of the sweater.  In this case I wanted this to be a little longer so that I could wear it as a tunic with leggings or a dress with tights.   

Always fuse knit interfacing to the back of the sweater where you plan to cut into the sweater.   For example, most of the time you will want to cut off the band at the bottom so you would apply fusible interfacing where you will be cutting.  Also if you plan to change the neckline then fuse interfacing to the top part of the sweater.  

In the past I have always left the sweater sleeves long, but this time I cut them off and hemmed them to make a modified "vest".    To add interest to the sweater and to make them look more like one garment then take elements, such as the pockets, cuffs, buttons, and fabric from the shirt to add to the sweater.   As you can see I used my serger to make strips of shirt fabric that I used for trim around the bottom and neckline.   I also used  the collar band as a decorative stripe down the front of the sweater.   Number one rule...cut off each piece of sweater and shirt as if it could be used because many times that's exactly what you end up doing.  

I used my ruffler attachment to make a pleated strip to put around the neckline.  

I like a stand up collar, so I move the tiny buttons up to the collar stand that makes a new collar.   

New Tunic

I finished the tunic that I made from the pattern I created from my ready-made sweater tunic.   I made it out of sweatshirt fleece which gives it a different silhouette.  It is more bell shaped and less drapey.  I'm still looking for a good sweater knit fabric so that I can make it again as a sweater.   However, this does show how different fabric choices can influence the shape of a garment.   I like them both. 

 

New Year--New project

It's the new year and I've given myself a new challenge.   I have a purchased sweater that I like and I have decided to recreate it in fabric.  It is very "roomy" so I shouldn't have any problem with the fit.  I purchased a sweatshirt fleece which has a varigated stripe which I can turn vertical or horizontal.  I will use interfacing where necessary to prevent stretching.  I'll post the finished product when completed.   Here's a picture of the sweater that I'll be using for the pattern.  Wish me luck!!

Tibetan Panel Coat

This past week, I finally made a Tibetan panel coat from a Folkwear pattern that I purchased many years ago. I used heavy cotton and linen blends which gave it structure and body.  The shoulders are a Charley Harper print.  I also made the coat reversible which greatly increased the usability but also increased the complexity.  I purposely chose a completely different color scheme for the reverse side so that it would feel really new and different from the panel side.   All of the facings on the reverse side had to be hand-sewn so that the stitching wouldn't be seen on the other side of the coat.   I think it took me about 10 - 15 hrs to do that.   Not sure I would do that again.   The pattern called for 3 different fabrics for the panel side and 2 for the reverse side.   I think I would like to see how this coat would look if I used multiple fabrics in the panels.  Maybe I could use some of the "scraps" I have in my stash...hmmm.  Let me know what you think.   

I love the way the shoulders are extended beyond the shoulder line.  I think it helps to balance the fullness of the hem line and bring the eye back to the face.   

You might also notice that I now have a mannequin for my photos.   I think she will bring some "life" into my photos....poor girl needs some hair, though.  I'll have to work on that.  Hope you enjoy the coat.  

   

Katie's Wearable and Figurative Art ONE DAY SALE

The Indy Cloth Dollmakers are having their 16th Annual Show and Sale on Saturday, November 17th.   At this ONE DAY sale I sell wearable art that I have made.  They are one-of-a-kind garments that you will not see anywhere else.   This year I have made coats, capes, ruanas, jackets, purses and jewelry.   I also have 3 new dolls for you to enjoy.   As usual all of our member artist will have their handmade items for sale as well.  

Our challenge doll was inspired by Ari Seth Cohen's documentary, Advanced Style which depicts women who have not let age define their style or their activies.   We have called our challenge "Growing Old Outrageously".  Come and vote your favorite doll.   

Also this year we have a special fiber art doll exhibit by Barbara Schoenoff which is entitled Wood Wives and their Habitat.   This exhibit is entirely handmade by the artist and is approximately 4 ft x 3ft.   It is so whimiscal and truely amazing.   

Show details:   Saturday, November 17th    
                         9 am  to 4 pm

 Where:             Irvington United Methodist Church
                          30 N. Audubon Rd
                          Indianapolis, IN 46219



  

Summer Sewing Projects

I've been working on a few summer sewing projects to add to my wardrobe.   My sisters and I recently went to Zinck's Fabric Outlet in Ligonier where I found this beautiful gauzy cotton butterfly fabric.   I knew immediately that I wanted to make a summer kimona style top from this fabric.   I originally thought that I would use my serger to do rolled hems on all the edges but the fabric was so loosely woven that I had to make hand rolled hems on all edges.   Nearly 7 yds of hand hemming!!!!  It was beautiful when finished but very time consuming.   I will love wearing this piece. 

The second project was a simple cotton top.  I bought this fabric about a year ago in a cute shop in Cincinnati called Fiberge  Knits and Bolts.   She has a very nice selection of fabrics and yarns.  Well worth the trip.   I really like the loose cotton tops with capri pants.  They hang loose from the body to keep you cool when it's hot but the sleeves also keep me from getting too cold in air conditioned restaurants.  

To add an additonal personal touch I made a necklace from fabric that picked up all the colors in the top.   If you haven't tried making your own fabric jewelry I recommend you give it a try.   This necklace was made using the "Ficklesticks" method.   Ficklesticks has a website where you can buy a starter kit that includes idea book and wire.   I'm definitely going to do more textile jewelry in the future.  There are so many beautiful ideas ways to use up fabric scraps and make something is totally you and totally unique.  

           

Busy, Busy, Busy.....

I am busy as a bee working on new items for the Indy Cloth Dollmakers Show and Sale.   As usual, I will have an assortment of wearable art garments, dolls, and accessories for sale.  All items are one of a kind.  I "up-cycle" vintage fur in many of my pieces.   I thought I would post a few pictures that might pique your curiosity.   Some of the pictures are partial photos of completed garments and others are just the materials that will be used in garments that are in process.  More to come.....

Rich golden plaid fur and tapestry

It's a flock of Butterflies!!

Rust/Brown Tweed with Applique and fur

Gray and Black Plaid with Gray Mink

Appliqued Persian Lamb

Lush Burgundy Leather and Mohair Curly Fur

 

Gorgeous Fall Tapestry

Fun with Fur

Lately I've been experimenting with up-cycling vintage furs.   I hate to see the furs go to waste.   A lot of them have damage or wear that don't make them usable in their original style but there is still some good fur to be used.   In the past I've made neck warmers but this year I tried something different.   I wanted to applique fabric on the fur to make it more fun and casual. 

For my first project I chose a fur 3/4 swing jacket.   I don't know what the fur is but it is really soft and curly....very unique.   I found some fabrics that I liked and then I sketched a design so that I would have some idea where to place the fabrics.   To begin the project, I took out the lining and then the sleeves.   I saved the lining so that I could make a pattern from it.  

The pockets were completely shot, so I remade them.  Next came the fun part, how to get my idea from paper to fur.    My first step was to make the blue shape that wandered from the front over the shoulder and onto the back.  Once this shape was cut I added bias binding to the edge and then sewed it onto the coat.   Then I place the flowers and circles on the the coat and sewed them on.  I used raw edge applique technique for this project.   After the designs were sewn on, I added the lining and finished the edges with a striped bias binding.   

I had enough in the sleeves to make a cool purse.  

  

Indy Cloth Dollmakers Show and Sale

I've been so busy making wonderful items for the show and sale that I forgot to post any pictures and the show is TOMORROW!!.   Well better late than never.   I've made four new one-of -a kind jackets.   I've also make some great knit cowls to wear instead of a scarf.  I've also used some vintage fur to make purses and neck warmers.  Back by popular demand are the Chloe Pin Dolls.  Check out  indyclothdollmakers.blogspot.com and vote for the doll you like.