Tibetan Panel Coat

This past week, I finally made a Tibetan panel coat from a Folkwear pattern that I purchased many years ago. I used heavy cotton and linen blends which gave it structure and body.  The shoulders are a Charley Harper print.  I also made the coat reversible which greatly increased the usability but also increased the complexity.  I purposely chose a completely different color scheme for the reverse side so that it would feel really new and different from the panel side.   All of the facings on the reverse side had to be hand-sewn so that the stitching wouldn't be seen on the other side of the coat.   I think it took me about 10 - 15 hrs to do that.   Not sure I would do that again.   The pattern called for 3 different fabrics for the panel side and 2 for the reverse side.   I think I would like to see how this coat would look if I used multiple fabrics in the panels.  Maybe I could use some of the "scraps" I have in my stash...hmmm.  Let me know what you think.   

I love the way the shoulders are extended beyond the shoulder line.  I think it helps to balance the fullness of the hem line and bring the eye back to the face.   

You might also notice that I now have a mannequin for my photos.   I think she will bring some "life" into my photos....poor girl needs some hair, though.  I'll have to work on that.  Hope you enjoy the coat.  

   

Wearable Art......for the home

It's the holiday time and I couldn't resist making a holiday decoration for my front door.   The space between the storm door and front door is too narrow for commercial wreaths so I decided to make my own.   Here it is and I love it!! 

For those of you who would like to know how I made it; read on....


Wreath instructions
I used a woven cotton flannel red and green flannel for the wreath and coordinating red flannel for the bow.   I used woven flannel so both sides of the fabric look the same.  The frame could be anything round but I used an old drum head frame.   I know, I have weird stuff in my stash.   Just goes to prove that ANYTHING round can be used. 
You can make it any size, even a candle ring size...think old embroidery hoop.   However, please use LED candle since cloth is flammable. 

• First I cut my plaid into strips approx. 5/8 " wide.  If you are making a smaller size I would cut narrower strips.  I used a wavy rotary cutter since I was cutting across the width.   It would be also very interesting to cut the strips on the bias.   Then you wouldn't need to use a wavy cutter since the bias won't ravel.  

Fig 1

 The next step takes a fringe maker tool.   I made my fringe 4 inches wide.   Not sure if you can buy them in that width, but I like to make many sizes of fringe so I made my own fringe maker.  At the end of this post, I will tell you how you can make your own fringe maker.  I have found many uses for this tool.   

• Wrap your strips around the fringe maker tool.  I overlapped mine about 1/4 inch. 
• Place a coordinating piece of yard down the center of your fringe.  
• Couch the yarn in place using a zigzag stitch.   See Fig 1

• When you get to the end of your fringe maker, cut your thread, take the wood bar off the rods and and slide off the top part of the fringe that has been sewn.    See Fig 2.  

Fig 2

• Reattach the fringe maker and add more loops until you reach the end of the fringe maker.  See Fig 2.
• Continue this process until you reach the length you need to wrap around your ring.  
• Leave about an inch of yarn at the end of the fringe.    
• At this point you may clip your loops if you like a fringy look.   I left mine in loops; either way will look fine.  
• Glue or tape the yarn to the starting place on your ring.   
• Wrap the fringe around the ring until it is completely covered.  
• Glue or tape the end of fringe to the starting point.
• I added a bow and gold jingle bells to complete my wreath.  

Fringe maker instructions: 

Here's what you need. 

• 3/4 x 3/8 pine trim about 24 inches long
• 1/8 inch steel welding rod   (these are usually 3 - 4 ft long)
• 4 knitting needle rubber stops that will fit and 1/8 needle 

1. Cut  3/4 x  3/8 pine trim into two 11 - 12 inch lengths.   Any longer than that is pretty awkward to use.   
2. Drill a  1/8 hole in a scrap piece of wood and test your first hole to make sure that your rod fits into the hole.  Adjust your drill bit size if needed.     (A drill press is very handy for this step.)  
3. Turn up on the 3/8 inch side and mark dots spaced 1 inch apart.
4. Drill a hole at each mark.  Be sure to drill all the way through the trim.   
5. Cut the welding rod into two pieces.  I cut mine about 15 inches long.  
6. Use a metal file to round off the cut ends.   This makes it easier to insert into the holes.
7. Insert the metal rods into the spacing you want and cap the ends with the rubber stoppers to prevent the board from slipping off the end while you are working on the fringe.